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September 06, 2005

Polaroid 95a 120 Film Conversion With Legos

Polaroid95a.jpg

The Polaroid 95a Land camera was manufactured from 1954-1957. It is a beautiful camera, and it is a shame that they don't make film for it anymore. When my friend gave me this camera, I knew I had to modify it somehow to make it usable. I came close to modifying it so I could use it with my Polaroid 545 back, but I couldn't bring myself to hack off the back of this camera. So, I decided to convert the Polaroid 95a to accept medium format 120 film. A quick measurement showed that I should be able to get a 6x10 image on 120 film. Here are the instructions for how to modify a Polaroid 95a to a usable 6x10 medium format camera. Oh, and I fabricated most of the new camera assembly out of Legos.

The first, and maybe the hardest part of modifying our Polaroid 95a camera is going to be stripping out all the rollers and unnecessary parts. We need to make as much room for our medium format Lego assembly as possible. I used a needle nose pliers, a drill to drill out the rivets, a hammer, and alot of elbow grease. Here is what your gutted Polaroid 95a looks like after you remove all the rollers:
FlatView.jpg

With the hard part out of the way, you are ready to play with legos. To advance the film, you will need to drill a hole in the top of the camera to put your film advance knob through. My hole wasn't in exactly the right place so you can see where I used a dremmel to make a little more room on the right (this is looking at it from the top):
lego3.jpg

I used a larger gear to turn a smaller gear. This allows one turn of the knob to advance the film one frame. The downside is that it puts a little too much pressure on the gears and if I am not careful it will miss a gear.
TopView.jpg

The next step is to build the part that will hold the spool. Here is a closer look at my assembly with and without the spool:
Lego1.jpg

There isn't a lego piece that will fit perfectly in a 120 spool so we will have to fabricate our own. A Dremmel and some sand paper should do the trick. Here is the before and after photo:
legoDremmel.jpg

The left side of the camera is where the unexposed roll of film will sit. This side is less complex than the film advance side because all it has to do is hold the film. A size 8 lego fits almost perfectly here. Keep in mind that you want the spool to be exactly straight accross from the spool on the other side so it doesn't bind. It should look like this:
FillHoles.jpg

Now that we have a place for the spool on both sides, it is time to build a guide in the center. This keeps the film tight and prevents it from getting off the spool on the right. I used matte board and it looked like this after the film is loaded:
FilmLoaded.jpg

Now all you have to do is fill any holes and test it out. It is a good idea to waste a roll of 120 film so that you can test your advance knob and make sure everything lines up. If any piece is loose or not perfectly aligned it will cause problems. I had to tweak things quite a bit before it loaded and advanced properly.

You are now ready to take pictures. There is one other thing to keep in mind before you start shooting up film. Old Polaroid cameras had their own system of "light values." Rather than setting the shutter and aperture separately, the Polaroid 95a has 8 different settings (1-8). Don't ask me the reason for this setup, but I can show you this chart that shows what each setting actually is in terms of shutter speed and aperture:

Polaroid #AperatureShutter Speed
1f/8.81/12
2f/8.81/25
3f/8.81/50
4f/8.81/100
5f/12.51/100
6f/17.51/100
7f/251/100
8f/351/100

The chart above uses information taken from www.rhwhirled.com which is a great resource if you want to learn more about the Polaroid 95a or many other older Polaroid cameras. Good luck with your modifications and drop me an email if you decide to undertake this hack.

Posted by Adrian at September 6, 2005 10:11 PM

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Comments

My first roll with this camera was pretty much a bust. I had a light leak, and my film advance wasn’t very reliable. After solidifying my lego structure and reenforcing the guilty light leaking areas, roll 2 was much better. Nothing spectacular, but I did get a couple good shots out of it including this one of a bike and a sprinkler

Posted by: Adrian at September 22, 2005 11:16 PM

Neat site! I have a 95a with the case, filters, flash, etc. I display it as part of my camera collection (mostly old Kodaks) and have owned it since 1965. I wanted info regarding date of manufacture and happened upon your site. I wasn’t considering renovation, but maybe….

Posted by: Bill Wetzel at October 8, 2005 03:25 PM

Very awesome. I love old cameras and your integration of legos (one of my favorite toys as a kid) is brilliant. Keep up the good work!

Posted by: Andrew at October 10, 2005 10:42 AM

check out http://www.polaroidiots.vze.com there are instructions on how to convert a polaroid 110a

Posted by: kid a at October 11, 2005 12:00 AM

yeah, is there an easy way to fix the light leak caused by drilling?

Posted by: dan at November 6, 2005 04:14 AM

I use aluminum tape. You can buy it at a hardware store in the ducting section. I think some people use a liquid welding product, but I haven’t experimented with that yet.

Posted by: Adrian at November 8, 2005 08:59 AM

Help!

I thought it was here, but apparently not…I recently saw a hack project converting a flip-up Polaroid or Polaroid-Zeiss rangefinder from a folding Polaroid cameras like a 103 or 250? to a handheld version using a machine screw, a couple nuts and a paper scale that one calibrates one’s self.

Has anyone else seen this and remember where?

Thanks

Murray

Posted by: murray at December 14, 2005 03:39 AM

Hi Adrian

i like your website, very cool lego cams. i have a polariod 95 and want to convert it to a lego 120 film. i have read your conversion, i was wondering do you have any more details, (more pics, list of legos used, detailed instructions)?

thanks for any info

Ed

Posted by: ed linn at January 12, 2006 08:29 AM

Ed, Sorry, but this is about the best I can do. Unfortunately, this is such a makeshift conversion that there is quite a bit of trial and error. All the Lego parts that I used are shown in the photos, and I don’t really have any more advice. Good luck, and don’t be frustrated if it takes some tinkering before you get it right.

Posted by: Adrian at January 13, 2006 11:29 PM

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